The Language of Scent: A glossary of traditional fragrance terminology
A
Absolute: A highly concentrated natural extract obtained with solvents, used for delicate materials like jasmine that can’t withstand heat.
Accord: A blend of notes that combine to create a new, unified impression, much like a musical chord. A “leather accord” may contain no actual leather.
Aldehydes: Synthetic materials with a bright, soapy, sparkling effect.
Amber (formerly “Oriental”): A fragrance family of warm, sensual scents featuring resins, vanilla, spices, and balsams. The industry has largely moved to the term “Amber.”
Ambroxan: A synthetic molecule with a woody-ambery, mineral glow, originally developed as an ambergris substitute.
Aroma Chemicals (Synthetics): Lab-created molecules that expand the perfumer’s palette, replicate scarce naturals, or create entirely new smells. Most modern fragrances use them.
B
Base Notes: The foundation. Heavier materials such as woods, musks, resins, and vanilla that anchor the scent and linger for hours.
C
Chypre: A fragrance family built on bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum, named after François Coty’s 1917 fragrance Chypre. Elegant, mossy, and slightly bitter.
Concrete: The waxy, semi-solid substance produced in the first stage of solvent extraction, which is then refined into an absolute.
D
Dry Down: The final phase of a fragrance on skin, once the top and heart notes have faded. Many perfumers consider it the truest expression of a scent.
E
Eau de Cologne (EDC): Around 2 to 4% concentration. Fresh and fleeting, traditionally citrus-forward.
Eau de Parfum (EDP): Around 15 to 20% concentration. A balance of intensity and wearability, and today’s most popular format.
Eau de Toilette (EDT): Around 5 to 15% concentration. Lighter and brighter, well suited to daytime wear.
Eau Fraîche: The lightest format, often 1 to 3%, designed for a quick splash of freshness.
Enfleurage: A historic extraction method in which flower petals are laid on fat to absorb their scent. Rarely used today.
Essential Oil: A natural aromatic extract, usually obtained by steam distillation or cold pressing (as with citrus peels).
F
Floral: A fragrance family built around flowers like rose, jasmine, tuberose, or lily. The largest and most varied family.
Fougère: French for “fern.” A fragrance family blending lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin, rooted in Houbigant’s Fougère Royale (1882) and the backbone of many classic men’s fragrances.
Fragrance Pyramid: The visual model showing top, heart, and base notes, used to describe how a scent unfolds over time.
Fresh: A broad fragrance family covering citrus, green (cut grass, leaves), and aquatic (sea air, ozone) scents.
G
Gourmand: A fragrance family inspired by edible notes like caramel, chocolate, praline, and coffee. Popularized by Thierry Mugler’s Angel in 1992.
H
Headspace Technology: A technique that captures the scent molecules surrounding a living flower or object so they can be analyzed and recreated.
Heart Notes (Middle Notes): The core character of a fragrance, emerging as the top notes fade. Florals and spices often live here.
I
IFRA: The International Fragrance Association, which sets safety standards that restrict or ban certain materials.
Iso E Super: A synthetic woody-velvety material known for its subtle, diffusive “skin” effect.
J
Juice: Industry slang for the fragrance liquid itself.
L
Layering: Wearing two or more fragrances together to create a personalized combination.
Longevity: How long a fragrance remains detectable on skin.
M
Maceration: The resting period after a fragrance is blended, allowing ingredients to meld before bottling.
Musk: Soft, skin-like base notes. Originally animal-derived, now produced synthetically (“white musks”) for ethical and regulatory reasons.
N
Niche vs. Designer: Designer fragrances come from fashion houses with wide distribution; niche houses focus exclusively on perfume, often with more experimental compositions and limited availability.
Nose (Perfumer): A trained professional who composes fragrances. Becoming a perfumer typically takes years of study and memorizing hundreds of materials.
Notes: The individual scents that make up a fragrance, such as bergamot, rose, or sandalwood. Notes describe what you smell, not necessarily the exact ingredients used.
O
Olfactory: Relating to the sense of smell. In perfumery, it describes anything connected to how we perceive scent, from olfactory receptors to the “olfactory pyramid” of a fragrance.
Oud (Agarwood): A dark, resinous wood formed when agar trees become infected. Prized, expensive, and central to Middle Eastern perfumery.
P
Parfum (Extrait de Parfum): The most concentrated form, typically 20 to 30% aromatic oils. Rich, intimate, and long-lasting.
Projection: How far a fragrance radiates from your body while you’re stationary.
R
Reformulation: A change to an existing fragrance’s formula, often due to ingredient costs, availability, or new regulations.
S
Sillage: French for “wake.” The scent trail left behind as you move through a room.
Skin Chemistry: The way your skin’s oils, pH, and temperature affect how a fragrance smells and lasts on you specifically.
T
Top Notes (Head Notes): The first impression. Light, fast-evaporating materials like citrus and herbs that last roughly 15 to 30 minutes.
W
Woody: A fragrance family centered on materials like cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, and patchouli. Dry, earthy, and grounding.
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